Lickerish Review

Words By

• Paul Wood

Adelaide diners are getting fussy. Restaurants and cafes have to continuously reinvent themselves to come up with ways not only to feed us, but also to entertain. If the venue gets stale, then pretty soon the kitchen stock will do the same. 

Some people who know a thing or two about reinventing themselves and a couple of former reality TV contestants are certainly on that list. My Restaurant Rules was one of Australia’s first cooking shows and I can imagine that the only thing more challenging than opening a restaurant would be to have it filmed while it was happening. The Greedy Goose was certainly one of Adelaide’s most recognisable restaurants while it was open thanks to its TV exposure and despite closing their doors a few years ago, owners Justine and John Hall managed to keep the venue fresh and the food exciting. This is a talent that these two have held onto with their new restaurant opening in Semaphore a few months ago.

Lickerish is upstairs on the main street of Semaphore, with views from the ocean if you are lucky enough to score a spot on the balcony. The venue has a casual yet elegant design, topped off by fantastic and very personal service by Justine and her food and beverage staff. On the topic of beverages the wine and beer list here is just brilliant. While keeping fairly loyal to South Australian wines, they have a good list of nationals on there too. Whoever wrote this list knows their stuff.

Lickerish is stylish, delicious and certainly entertaining. I found it almost impossible to choose between the dishes on the menu, but settled with three of the ‘smaller’ dishes. Pork belly served with celeriac, coffee, cocoa and a toffee-dipped miniature apple to balance things out ($18). This dish was simply outstanding – with perfect flavour combinations and texture. A crisp, fresh and light dish of chevre, lime, pinenut and mint stuffed zucchini flowers ($17) followed this, before the hero dish of the menu landed, The Octopus’ Garden ($16). I’d heard rumours of this dish and seen pictures, but nothing could prepare me for the real thing. Cucumber ribbons, poached cherry tomato, edible flowers and tender slices of octopus have been artfully arranged on a base of wasabi-infused avocado. If food could win an art prize, then the octopus’ garden would be a frontrunner.

WHAT: Lickerish
WHERE: Level 1, 26 Semaphore Rd, Semaphore
WHEN: Wed – Sun 11am – midnight
CONTACT: lickerish.com.au

Images: Andre Castellucci / andrec.net